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在馬來西亞逛集市

Shopping in Malaysia, the Old Way
在馬來西亞逛集市

KUALA LUMPUR — A vibrant cornucopia of colors bursts from tables laden with tropical fruits and Asian vegetables. Nearby, slick eels splash noisily in a tank and a tray of catfish fight for their last breaths, as men push trolleys past elderly women doing their morning shopping.

吉隆坡——擺滿熱帶水果和亞洲蔬菜的攤檔散發著活潑斑斕的色彩。不遠處,滑溜溜的鱔魚在水槽中扭動拍打,發出雜亂的聲響,擺在托盤里的鯰魚則掙扎著感受最后的呼吸。男人推著裝貨的小車,與晨起買菜的老太太擦肩而過。

Beneath the tables holding the seemingly endless array of produce at Kuala Lumpur’s Chow Kit market, whether chunks of meat or mangos and limes, puddles of water gather amid dropped vegetables and discarded fish bones.

在吉隆坡的秋杰路市場(Chow Kit market),攤位上一排排的食品與物產仿佛望不到邊,無論是鮮肉,還是芒果和檸檬。攤位下掉落的蔬菜和拋棄的魚骨之間,是一攤攤的積水。
 

吉隆坡秋杰路市場(Chow Kit)中待售的蔬菜。

The traders readily admit it is a noisy, dirty scene, but here, in one of the oldest and largest wet markets in the city, is a glimpse into an aspect of traditional Malaysian life in a city where multistory shopping centers have mushroomed in recent years.

攤主們爽快地承認,這個地方臟亂且吵鬧。但作為吉隆坡最古老、規模最大的濕貨市場之一,它可以讓我們對馬來西亞傳統生活方式有個直觀的了解,尤其是摩登購物中心在高樓中迅速涌現的時代。

Big malls, with their spotless facilities, designer brand names and cinema multiplexes, have become the primary places for shopping and entertainment for many young middle-class Malaysians. But Chow Kit market retains the rough-and-ready tumble of a place where everyday goods, like shrimp paste, peanuts and delicately wrapped Malaysian sweets, have been bought and sold for more than 50 years.

擁有潔凈設施、名牌產品和多廳電影院的大型購物中心近年已成為馬來西亞年輕中產階級購物和娛樂的首選。但秋杰路市場仍然是個購買日常用品的好地方,雖然環境粗糙,但應有盡有,包括蝦醬、花生、包裝精致的馬來糖果等在馬來西亞市場上流行了50年的東西。

“They’ve got everything,” said Nori Malek, 64, who visits the market most mornings. “I come to see friends, buy fish, buy vegetables, then go back home and cook.”

“這里什么都有。”諾里·馬力(Nori Malek)說。馬力今年64歲,幾乎每天上午都要來一趟市場。“我來這里看朋友,買魚,買菜,然后回家做飯。”

Visiting the shopping malls is almost unavoidable during a stay in Kuala Lumpur, but a morning spent meandering through the narrow aisles of Chow Kit market, where the multitude of goods reflects the dynamic mix of Malaysian cultures, can be a feast for the senses, although it can be a little overwhelming.

對游覽吉隆坡的旅行者來說,購物中心幾乎是不可避免的血拼目的地。但找個上午在秋杰路市場狹窄的走道里漫步,盡情欣賞豐富物品反映出的活力四射的馬來文化,盡管會有點兒信息量太大,但絕對是一場感官的盛宴。

The market has somehow managed to survive the development craze that has swept much of the rest of the capital in recent decades. The Petronas Towers, the tallest twin buildings in the world, can be seen hovering nearby through the hazy morning sunshine.

過去的幾十年中,吉隆坡經歷了一場現代化發展狂潮,但秋杰路市場卻巍然不動,沒受什么影響。透過朦朧的晨光,我們可以看到世界最高的雙塔建筑雙子塔(Petronas Towers)在不遠的前方昂然屹立。

But with Chow Kit slated for a makeover into what the government promises will be a more hygienic, user-friendly market, now is the perfect time to visit, before some of its more traditional characteristics fall by the wayside.

但根據政府的規劃,秋杰路市場即將經歷一場翻修,翻新后的市場衛生程度將大為提高,也更方便顧客使用。因此現在是造訪秋杰路市場的最佳時機,再晚一點兒,部分傳統特色可能就會消失不見。

A short taxicab ride from the city center will deliver you to Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, one of the main thoroughfares running through the Chow Kit area (“jalan” means street in Malay).

在市中心坐上出租車,幾分鐘就會到達東姑阿都拉曼路(Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman)。這條路是縱貫秋杰路區域的主干道之一,名字中的“jalan”在馬來語中意思是“大街”。

Just down the road from the elevated Chow Kit monorail station (another transport option if you are staying near a station), head down Jalan Raja Alang and enter the market on your left, opposite Safuan Plaza.

從高架單軌列車秋杰路站下車(如果你下榻的酒店附近有單軌列車站,也是前往秋杰路市場的交通方式之一),徑直向南,到達拉惹阿郎路(Jalan Raja Alang),你會發現秋杰路市場就在你的左手邊,沙福安廣場(Safuan Plaza)的對面。

Stalls selling exotic fruits greet visitors at the entrance. Rambutan, whose fine spines poking out from its skin help it live up to its name (“hairy” in Malay), dangle from strings above mangos piled up in neat rows. Petai, or stink beans, still encased in their long green pods, hang over multiple varieties of eggplant.

市場入口處,充滿異國情調的熱帶水果在攤位上熱情迎接你的到來。表皮長滿軟刺、名至實歸的紅毛丹用繩子綁著,在排列整齊的芒果堆上空悠然晃蕩。種類繁多的茄子上方,懸掛著尚在綠色長豆莢中的臭豆。

This part of the market is dominated by Indonesian and Malay traders, who chop, weigh, slice and wrap goods for their morning customers.

市場的入口地帶主要由印尼人和馬來人占據,他們砍削、稱重、切片、包裝,為一大早就來買菜的顧客提供一條龍服務。

Further in, stall holders of Indian, Chinese and occasionally African ethnicity can be spotted.

繼續向前走,攤販的主體變成了印度人和華人,偶爾還能看見幾個非洲人。

The pungent smell of dried shrimp signals that you have arrived in the meat and seafood section, where chickens, their legs pointing skywards, share tables with lumps of beef and ruby-colored livers.

干制魚蝦的刺鼻氣味,提醒你已經到達肉類和海鮮區。宰好的整雞雙腿朝上,與大塊牛肉和紫紅色的動物肝臟在案板上并肩排列。

Cattle carcasses hang from hooks as butchers carve off slabs of flesh. Cattle heads, teeth bared menacingly, wait for customers to take them home to flavor their soup.

牲畜的尸體掛在鉤子上,需要的時候攤主隨時可從上面削下幾塊鮮肉。白牙森森的牛頭兇神惡煞般待在案板上,等顧客將它們買回家燉湯。

As he deftly slices the skin from a cow’s head, Serozudi, an Indonesian man who has been working here for 20 years, says he sells about 15 heads a day, at 120 ringgit, or $38, each.

來自印度尼西亞的商販塞魯祖第(Serozudi)一邊麻利地切剝牛頭上的皮,一邊告訴我,他已在這個市場工作了20多年,平均每天賣出15只牛頭,每只售價120林吉特,或者38美元。

With water trickling down the concrete aisles (covered shoes are a smart choice), it does not take long to realize why Chow Kit is called a wet market.

看著不斷滴到水泥走道上的水滴(最好穿上腳背腳趾都不露在外面的鞋),你會很快明白為什么當地人把秋杰路市場叫做濕貨市場。

Down the left side of the main building are stalls selling wholesale goods like toilet plungers and kitchen utensils, spices and nuts and piles of dried chilies in hessian sacks.

主建筑的左側是批發日用品的攤位,貨品有廁所拔子、廚房用具、調料、干果,還有裝在麻袋里的大堆干辣椒。

Sticking to the main thoroughfare can help you orient yourself, but pick your way down the side alleys and you will be rewarded with a peek into the production processes that go into creating some Asian favorites, like the tofu at Jason Yeo Kok Hiong’s shop, a family business that has been here for more than 40 years.

只在主通道附近活動會讓你方向清晰,不至迷路。但只要踏進遠一些的通道,就會覺得這種冒險完全值得——你將有機會親眼目睹豆腐等亞洲美食的制作過程。詹森·楊國雄(Jason Yeo Kok Hiong)的店鋪就是一間做豆腐的家庭式作坊,在這里營業已經40多年。

Inside, steam curls around a man as he scoops huge ladles of boiling soy milk from a vat, pouring it into blue tubs where it is left to settle, before another man pours it into square wooden frames, covers it in cloth and places another plank on top to squeeze out the water. Later, the tofu will be delivered to restaurants around the city.

豆腐坊內蒸汽繚繞,工作人員先用特大號勺子將滾燙的豆漿從大桶中舀出,再倒入藍色的盆子里,讓豆漿降溫冷卻。接著,另一名員工將冷卻的物質倒入一只方形木框,蓋上棉布,再壓一塊厚木板,將水分擠出并壓制成型。最后,做好的豆腐當天會送到城內多家餐館。

At the back of the building, the market’s only cake stall offers an abundance of Malaysian sweets and deep fried snacks, sold alongside clothing like the baju kurung, the long skirt and long-sleeved top traditionally worn by Malay women, and batik cloths.

在建筑的后半部分,市場內唯一的糕點攤檔供應種類豐富的馬來西亞糖果和油炸小點心。它的旁邊是家服裝店,出售馬來套裙(baju kurung)和蠟染之類的服裝。馬來套裙是馬來西亞的一種傳統女式服裝,由長裙和長袖上衣組成。

Loop around to the right and you reach another building, where old men sit at Chinese coffee shops, drinking strong brew and smoking. An elderly noodle maker rests nearby, his morning’s work, wrapped in plastic, on display on trolleys awaiting collection.

向右走一段,就到了另一座建筑。老年人坐在華人開設的咖啡館里,一邊抽煙一邊喝著濃咖啡。附近的店鋪里,面條師傅正在歇息。一大早就做好的面條用透明塑料裹著,擺在推車里等待購買。

In one of the few signs that modernity has begun seeping into these old alleyways, a stall decorated with Chinese lanterns advertises prepaid Internet deals.

偶爾也有幾個招牌提醒我們現代文明已悄然滲入這些古舊的通道。一個裝飾著中國燈籠的攤位上,掛著預付費上網服務的廣告。

There are no tourists in sight, and many of the traders, like Jinny Chew, are happy to chat, calling out “good morning” as you pass.

市場內看不到旅游者,不少攤主都熱情開朗,喜歡和顧客聊天。你走過他們攤位的時候,他們會大聲跟你說“早上好”。

Ms. Chew, who sells black beans, dried mushrooms and canned meats from China, soy sauce and gnarly roots of Malaysian ginger, says she is looking forward to the market’s renovation so that it will be a cleaner place to work.

周金妮(Jinny Chew)就是其中的一個。她的攤檔出售黑豆、干蘑菇、來自中國的罐裝肉類、醬油和奇形怪狀的馬來西亞生姜。她說她對市場的翻修充滿期待,那樣她的工作環境會干凈一些。

She has been working at a stall called Yee Fatt Heng & Co., which previously belonged to her husband’s grandfather, seven days a week for more than three decades, rising at 4:30 a.m. to reach the market in time to prepare for her first customers.

她所在的店鋪“余發興公司”(Yee Fatt Heng & Co.)是她丈夫從爺爺那里繼承而來的。她每周工作七天,已經在這里工作了30多年。每天早上她四點半起床,然后趕到店鋪,迎接當天的第一批顧客。

The shop has helped Ms. Chew, 60, give her three children university educations, but she said she did not want them to take over the family business.

今年60歲的周女士憑借這家店鋪的收入,支付了三名子女大學學費。但她不希望孩子們接管家族的生意。

“It’s very tough in the market life,” she said in English. “I’ve got no chance to sleep in the morning, I don’t have holidays. I don’t have time to rest.”

“做小買賣的生活很苦。”她用英語說道。“每天早上還沒睡夠我就得起床,而且從來沒有假期。根本沒有時間休息。”

Ms. Chew says fewer customers visit the market these days, preferring to visit shopping centers where the parking is easier, but she is hopeful that the redevelopment may draw back some customers.

周女士說,這幾年愿意來市場購物的顧客越來越少了,他們更喜歡去大型購物中心,因為那里停車方便。但她希望,市場翻新以后能將部分顧客拉回來。

Further down the aisle, Khairul Iskandar, 40, is not prepared to wait for customers to come to him. He has started a Web site to sell his roots, limes and flowers, used in traditional Malay medicine.

但通道另一邊的卡魯爾·伊斯干達(Khairul Iskandar)卻并不指望太多顧客造訪??敔柦衲?0歲,他在網上開了家店鋪,出售馬來西亞傳統醫藥所需的植物根莖、檸檬和鮮花。

He says traders need to cater to the shopping preferences of young Malaysians, as well as their older clientele.“They don’t want to come here,” he said. “They just want to see the item on the Internet. They order online.” And then he delivers.

他說生意人除了服務老顧客以外,也必須迎合年輕一代馬來人的購物喜好。“他們不想親自跑到市場。”他說:“他們只需在網上看看貨物的照片,就直接下訂單。”然后他就將貨物送到顧客的家門。
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